Just back from a surf. Big and windy down here today. Had a couple of Chunky ones, but mostly just paddling around trying to find the right spot. Made a tit of myself getting out. Got slammed in the high tide shore break and washed up the beach like a dead seal.
Took this yesterday playing golf, there were some superb clean sets coming in. About four foot, no wind, barrels and all sorts. Just to the left of the central cliff, beach called Pobbles.
There were some quality surfers down there yesterday. When that beach is working, it's a bit of a go to. Not often it is mind.
Yeah SE facing I believe ? Would take a fair swell to wrap around into that bay. I've surfed Llangennith at the other end, that beach is a swell magnet.
Yeah, you get a proper pounding at Llangennith. That's where I used to give it a go years back. It just faces out west toward the Atlantic so there's always a wave of some sort.
Same as my local beach down here. Direct W facing beach and facing the Atlantic. I’m far enough south and west for there to be out of the swell shadow from Ireland, so on the right swell it can travel 3k miles from the other side of the Atlantic before hitting the beach here. We also get a lot of swell this time of year from hurricanes out near Florida and the Caribbean that send their swell racing across the Atlantic. Good time of year to surf. The water is still relatively mild and most of the tourists have ****ed off home
We've got a spot here called the Breakwater (on account of an old wooden breakwater that's rotted away). It's tucked in round the inside of a headland and faces NE which is the exact opposite direction to the prevailing swells. It takes a massive 17ft+ swell to light up. And when it does the waves wrap around the headland and peel off into this little beach at about 5ft-6ft. Doesn't sound like much, but the power of those big swells and the bottom contours of that break, makes for fast top to bottom barrelling waves. There's one take off spot and it's mobbed when it's on. I rock up there with my big old 10'7" oil tanker and sit just that bit further out so that I can pick off the big ones and leave the crowd to fight it out on the inside
lol. I’m just grateful my eyesight is still decent enough to spot it from afar. Let alone catch up with it