I do a lot of DIY Joe - sure others will have 'skills'; what's your challenge? Bit difficult to suggest out without some details
Cheers lads. I'm having a Mancave built 20 X 10. 4 foot of this will be a shed. There will be a partition wall and a door to the shed and Mancave. Insulation wise I bought loft insulation and bubble wrap and I was going to put the loft rolls on then seal with bubble wrap (good for noise) then board over. Will this be sufficient? Also what will be good as a floor insulation. And will I need ventilation?
1st question is, do you wish to have this man cave included as part of any future sale of your house (when and if it comes to hat) After that, you can be better advised!
I built a 10' x 8' shed 25 years ago and regreted it should have been 20' x 10'. paving slabs first use sand to level, base 4" x 2" joists , 16" gap between joists, tounge and grooved flooring about an inch thick nailed on the opposite run of the joists, centre of each joist to join, 3" x 2" stoothing type walls to give room for insulation, I would cover with half inch thick MDF not plaster board, countersunk and screwed, florescent lights (protected) on ceiling, power points along the walls, and kitchen worktop and cupboards underneath.Outer shed walls T & G 6' high 3/4" thick x 6" wide. It goes to say cscs safety is excellent to learn you can buy the book, and use safety goggles, ear protection, and gloves. Keep water out of the shed also. Using band saws, chop saws fret saws is very risky, I was trained to use them, a push stick (length of timber with a v cut out at the end) is a MUST when using them electric saws, forget about hilti guns far too dangerous.
It's a separate building. I am having the shed built for me (haven't time to do it myself) but I'm gonna sort everything else. So I will basically start from a empty shell
I'm not a builder but pretty good at most things DIY and built myself a man cave a couple of year ago. It's 4 x 3 meters, walls and roof are insulated with 2" polystyrene, i thought about using loft insulation but the polystyrene is much easier to work with and not that much more expensive. If i remember rightly it was a similar price. I just went on ebay and ordered a pack big enough to suit the structure. It's got log panelling as an internal skin on the walls and roof. A word of advice Joe. Plan all your electrics before you begin the build, know where you want sockets, lights, switches, TV Arial, internet point etc. I can honestly say i have never been cold in there but it never put any doors on it, just left it open plan if you like and during the winter months i added a wood burner in there but rarely use it tbh, more for show than go. Sound wise it's very good as well and i plan to put some doors on it this year. I can send pics if you want but will have to wait till tonight when i get back to the digs.
Listen to Welder about pre planning your electrics etc. Wise words. One other thing. You can never have to many power points. Over spec them.
Insulation and ventilation is my main sorry as wasn't sure what type to use and what insulation would be good enough. My friend is an electrician and he will be sorting that. It will be linked to the fuse box in the house but will have its own separate box
For the roof id go loft insulation Not the 2" bollocks go for 6. You can also get wall insulation boards. Ventilation. Bathroom extractors should do it. Get your sparky to connect them to your light switch.
That's exactly what i did mate, ended up with 6 double sockets and a single for the TV. Another good tip is get one of those newish (Screwfix) double sockets with USB charger built in, they're not expensive and ideal when you can't be arsed or are too drunk to go back to the house to put your phone on charge. Only about £15 as well.
Can never have to many. We sometimes install floor sockets. So you dont need cables lying everywhere.. Joe dont forget some weatherproof outside sockets.
That's a good point, make sure you get some sockets for your cock, Screwfix do a line called Cockets... pre-insulated.
